In the Footsteps of the Sultan: Alaeddin Keykubad’s Conquest on the Alanya-Bozkır Caravan Route

In the shadow of the Taurus Mountains, where the whispers of Silk Road merchants still linger in the wind, lies a forgotten path carved by history: the Alanya-Bozkır Keykubad Route. Once echoing with the footsteps of caravans and armies, this ancient trail now invites modern adventurers to walk in the footsteps of Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad, who changed the fate of Anatolia by conquering Alanya in 1221.

A Conquest Forged in Stone and Strategy

In the spring of 1221, Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad set out from Konya, the heart of the Seljuk Empire, toward the defiant cliffs of Kalonoros (modern-day Alanya). Ignoring the coastal Alara Castle, he charted a bold inland route—through the rugged plateaus of Bozkır, over the peaks of Geyik and Karaçal Mountains, and across the perilous Susam Beli pass. For two months, his army advanced along thorny paths, their march echoing with the clatter of hooves and the creak of wagons. Today, hikers following this route can almost hear the whispers of Seljuk soldiers gazing toward the Mediterranean horizon.

Bridges Stretching into the Past

The key to the Sultan’s campaign lay in the stone bridges—marvels of Seljuk engineering that still stand today. At Kemer Köprü, where the Alara River foams beneath twin arches, hikers pause where Keykubad’s army once crossed. Farther east, Ali Köprüsü spans a ravine near Güneycik, its massive keystones defying eight centuries of floods. These bridges were lifelines for caravans hauling grain from Bozkır’s fertile plains to Alanya’s bustling port—from where spices and silks sailed to distant lands.

Caravanserais: Oases of Time

Scattered along the route, the ruins of Şarapsa Han, Gelesendra Han, and Dereyol Han whisper tales of weary travelers. These fortified inns—with their stables and baths—sheltered merchants, soldiers, and dervishes. On the flower-strewn highlands of Gelesendra Yaylası, the Sultan’s men likely rested under the same stars that guide hikers today. Imagine the crackle of fires, the scent of simmering pots, and the murmur of prayers before dawn marches.

The Siege That Shaped a Coast

After weeks navigating mountain passes, Keykubad’s forces descended into the Alara Valley, skirting Kalonoros’ western flank. Emerging from the dizzying Roman-era switchbacks called the "Kırk Dönmeler" (Forty Turns), they appeared before Güzelbağ, bathed in Mediterranean light. The siege that followed was a triumph of will: for 60 days, Seljuk engineers scaled cliffs until the fortress surrendered. When Kalonoros fell, it was renamed Alaiye—"the Jewel of the Sultan’s Crown"—and this route via Gündoğmuş became a vital artery linking Anatolia’s heart to the sea.

Hiking the Route Today

For modern hikers, the Alanya-Bozkır trail is a journey through layers of time:

• Susam Beli Pass: Climb through pine forests where Seljuk sentries once stood watch.

• Narağacı & Ortaköy: Pass stone villages hiding forgotten symbols in their walls.

• Alara River: Wade where Keykubad’s horses drank, then explore the ruins of Alara Castle, seized after Alanya’s conquest.

• Kanlı Dere (Bloody Creek): Follow the gorge where the Sultan first glimpsed Kalonoros’ "unconquerable" walls at Fığla Burnu.

Epilogue: A Road That Refuses to Fade

In 1920, Ottoman officials deemed modernizing the Alanya-Bozkır route "impossible"—too costly, too wild. Their failure is our gain. Unpaved and untamed, this trail remains a portal to the Seljuk era, its earth still murmuring with stories of caravans, conquests, and the sultan who dared to march where others turned back.

Lace your boots. Fill your flask. Tread lightly.
This is not just a hike—it’s a pilgrimage through the soul of Anatolia.